Roger Dubuis at SIHH 2016

Ode to the Fairer Sex

Roger Dubuis proudly showcased a litany of timepieces at this year’s SIHH in January, all of which evidently celebrate the conqueress in unrestrained opulence. Movements like the RD821B fete the intellectual woman while Blossom Velvet and Velvet Secret Heart form metaphors of a woman’s endearing qualities. Above all, Roger Dubuis’ focus on the fairer sex exalts women of accomplishment and women whom we cherish – both of which are reflected in the Velvet Ribbon Haute Joaillerie. Here, we review three iconic releases.

Blossom Velvet

An accomplished brand in the domain of men’s technical watches, Roger Dubuis still strives to add dimensions to its growing microverse. So does the Blossom Velvet, in more ways than one. The 36-mm Blossom Velvet enshrines a minimalist and tonneau-shaped mother-of-pearl dial within an extravagantly furnished round dial with a separate mother-of-pearl level. Only one piece in each colour (black, blue and mauve satin straps) is available.

Other limited timepieces are available, namely the pink gold Blossom Velvet Pink, and the white gold Blossom Velvet Blue. Each available in 88 pieces, they, like Blossom Velvet, feature grand feu enamelled floral motifs that flourish around the tonneau’s diamond-studded periphery.

The bezel of each case is generously lavished with brilliant-cut diamonds, whose circle is broken by two diamond encrusted ‘links’. The ‘third lug’ straddles the strap, adding to the glamour. 154 diamonds totalling almost two carats emblazone the dial, bezel, lugs and buckle of the Blossom Velvet, while the Blossom Velvet Pink and Blossom Velvet Blue are each paved with 413 diamonds that total approximately 3.48 carats.

Velvet Secret Heart

Limited to just eight pieces, Velvet Secret Heart is equipped with bi-retrograde jumping date indication, and recalls heritage – the RD01 from over a decade ago read minutes and hours through retrograde hands. A blue sunburst dial sets the tone for diamonds decorating a white gold case. Upon a single central dial, pointers and Roman numerals tell the minutes and hours, while a double-retrograde ‘jumping’ red pointer and Arabic numerals indicate the day of the month – a feat of engineering that is rare and difficult to achieve. The case and clasp brandish 124 brilliant-cut diamonds, while its ‘unlimited’, toned-down version without date indication showcases 64 brilliant-cut diamonds.

Velvet Ribbon Haute Joailleerie

A glitzy show of privilege, this 38.5-mm high jewellery timepiece is almost a centimetre thick, and is glazed with an intricate assembly of 631 emerald- and baguette-cut diamonds. Limited to eight pieces worldwide, this monumental undertaking of delicate gem-setting includes a dazzling split-level dial, a Haute Joaillerie platinum bracelet fully paved with emerald-cut diamonds and 1-carat F/IF-VVS gems pillaring the six and 12 o’clock positions of the bezel.

Its enchanting play on geometrics flirts with the eye, leading it through a flurry of patterns. The Velvet Ribbon Haute Joaillerie’s diamonds are oriented to best disperse light across its openworked chatons, while using the Clou de Paris technique to hold multiple diamonds in place with a single pin.

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