In 1941, Patek Philippe turned the watch world on its head with the introduction of the Ref. 1518, a serially-produced perpetual calendar that included a chronograph complication. No company had ever offered such a timepiece, and it would be many decades before another would do so. In the meantime, Patek iterated upon this unique combination of complications, releasing the follow-up reference 2499 in 1951. By the end of its production run in 1986, this longstanding fan favorite had swapped its rectangular pushers for more modern pump pushers and its acrylic crystal for a sapphire one. At this point, Patek introduced the ref. 3970, a thoroughly modern QP-chronograph powered by a hand-wound Lemania movement that also served as the basis for Omega’s famed Caliber 321.
Measuring 36 mm, this precious-metal watch manages to display a wealth of information without seeming crowded: While day and month windows are situated beneath 12 o’clock, a combination 30-second totalizer and leap-year indicator is featured at 3 o’clock; at 6 o’clock is a combination moon-phase and date indicator; and at 9 o’clock is a combination 24-hour indicator and running seconds indicator. Set in a yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, or platinum case, it’s a recipe for a highly collectible, complicated stunner produced in under 4,000 examples during an 18-year run. While it doesn’t necessarily command the premiums of an older 2499 or 1518, its blend of old-world classicism, modern materials, and features make it the ultimate “neo-vintage" watch.
From the article by Allen Farmelo, Paige Reddinger, Victoria Gomelsky, Oren Hartov, Blake Buettner
