For much of the 20th century, submitting a watch movement for observatory trials was one of the best ways to advertise a watch brand’s chronometric bona fides. Only the most precise and well made calibers achieved top results at these competitions, and Zenith—which began submissions in 1897—achieved a staggering 2,333 of them. The new G.F.J, named in honor of the brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, honors that legacy by reviving one of the maison’s most famed observatory movements, the cal. 135, for use in a spectacular new dress watch. Limited to 160 pieces in honor of Zenith’s 160th birthday, it blends several distinct metiers in an attractive, singular whole.
Measuring 39.15 mm in a round platinum case with a stepped bezel and lugs and a notched crown, it features a three-part dial composed of a blue lapis lazuli center disc; an outer ring in a brick guilloché pattern with faceted, white gold applied hour indices and a minute track of 40 white gold beads; and mother-of-pearl sub-seconds dial above 6 o’clock. Finished with white gold hands, the display is powered by the hand-wound cal. 135, a movement that achieved five consecutive first prizes in the wristwatch category at the Neuchatel Observatory between 1950 and 1954. Revived by the brand with the aid of master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, it’s been recreated for the momentous occasion of the brand’s 16th decade of continuous operation.
Case Size: 39.15 mm
Case Material: Platinum
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Strap: Dark blue alligator; black calfskin leather; blue Saffiano calfskin leather; optional platinum bracelet
From the article by Paige Reddinger, Oren Hartov, Victoria Gomelsky, Carol Besler, Justin Fenner
